Indigenous meaning of life in British Columbia

I feel a sense of awe and wonderment as I stand at the base of the Cedar Tree of Life on Meares Island in British Columbia.

It’s almost unfathomable to imagine that this tree has lived in this particular spot for an estimated 1300 years. As I crane my neck in an attempt to see the top of the magnificent specimen of western red cedar, I think about all that has happened over those 13 centuries and marvel at something having lived for that length of time.

I also think about how there was once a plan to cut it down. How it could have ended up as lumber to build a patio deck or a chair in some sub-division somewhere.

When clear-cutting in the early 1980s threatened to destroy the ancestral gardens on Meares Island — the BC government had given forestry companies permission to harvest up to 90 per cent of the trees on Meares, which is 2.5km from the shores of Tofino on Vancouver Island — the largest act of civil disobedience to that point in Canadian history put the Clayoquot Sound region on the international stage.

Environmental groups joined with the Tla-o-qui-aht and Ahousaht First Nations to organise protests that lasted for several years and eventually led to the loggers being turned away. Ultimately, in April 1984, Meares Island was declared Canada’s first Tribal Park, whereby the local Indigenous government takes on the role of protecting the ecosystem. Since then, it has become a symbol of land conservation efforts and the importance of protecting ancient forests.

The park’s Big Tree Trail is under the stewardship of the Tla-o-qui-aht Tribal Parks Guardians, who have spent tireless hours improving the trail — most notably constructing boardwalks from reclaimed wood to protect the shallow tree roots that have been suffering from heavy foot traffic, and replacing an old foam dock and gangway with a much more environmentally-friendly dock made with air-filled floats.

Guardian Tattuuskulth (Tatt) Charlie exudes a sense of pride as he guides me through the ancient forest. He explains how Tla-o-qui-aht traditionally harvest cedar that allows the tree to continue its life and maintain the forest canopy — and he also shares a few words of caution to those who have plans to visit the island.

“I don’t mind showing off our territory. It’s the people who come here and litter and destroy our homeland that irk me,” says Tattuuskulth, a name which translates to Stargazer.

“I hope they learn from the experience that there are still Indigenous people saving their land. We’re out here building trails and we want people to enjoy it. Not harvest from it or take from it. We can walk with Mother Earth and understand more and more that we are in such a beautiful place and we should be taking care of it, not abusing it.”

The trail is only accessible by boat, and there are several tour companies in the region that will take you there, or you can take a 10-minute water taxi ride from Tofino. There are two options for the hike; a 2.4km out-and-back trek along the boardwalks or a 4.2km loop trail that follows a dirt path through the forest, passes a beach and then returns to the boardwalks close to the dock. Bring proper footwear as the trail can often be muddy and the boardwalk planks can be slippery when wet.

There are many highlights along the trail, including a tree with a hollowed-out section where you can stand inside and truly immerse yourself in nature, and the Hanging Garden Tree, which is 8m wide, estimated to be up to 2000 years old and is actually a group of four trees growing together with a variety of medicinal plants sprouting from them.

Indigenous Tourism is a growing industry in Canada. Since its inception in 2015, the Indigenous Tourism Association of Canada (ITAC) has done a superb job assisting Indigenous tour operators across the country to get market-ready — and an equally impressive job at then marketing these experiences to a worldwide audience.

In 2021, more than 18,000 people worked in the Indigenous tourism sector in Canada and ITAC hopes to see that number rise to 60,000 by 2030. Indigenous tourism has been shown to be a significant source of employment and an important economic driver in Indigenous communities across Canada. It is also an important reconciliation opportunity, allowing Indigenous peoples to share their culture on their own terms in a way that is beneficial to them.

A recent ITAC survey revealed that 88 per cent of Canadians are interested in exploring an Indigenous Tourism experience and the data also showed that international visitors to Canada have the same desire.

The Big Tree Trail is one of many Indigenous tourism experiences in the Tofino area where visitors can learn more about the culture, heritage and history of Indigenous peoples in Canada’s Pacific Northwest region.

fact file

Here are more worth exploring . . .

Ahous Adventures An upstart eco-and-cultural adventure company owned by the Ahousaht Nation that offers a variety of excursions, including whale and/or bear watching. Its signature tour is to Hot Springs Cove, where geothermal springs have been used for centuries for medicinal and spiritual benefits.

Clayoquot Wild Tours One of the area’s longest-running operators, CWT offers whale watching, wildlife and hot springs tours, as well as deep-sea fishing excursions. Its Journey Into History tour is a fascinating several hours spent with elder Moses Martin, a 13-term chief councilor of the Tla-o-qui-aht First Nation and a key figure in the anti-logging protests on Canada’s west coast during the 80s and 90s that came to be known as the War in the Woods.

Tin Wis Resort The ocean-front property is owned and operated by the Tla-o-qui-aht First Nation. Tin Wis means “calm waters” in the Nuu-chah-nulth language and the resort integrates Tla-o-qui-aht culture and traditions, providing guests a unique cultural experience alongside stunning natural scenery.

NAAS Foods The fine folks at this seafood market serve up fresh husmin (kelp) and suuhaa (Chinook salmon) — along with other high quality, eco-conscious products sourced locally. The kelp is sustainably hand-harvested off the coast of Clayoquot Sound and hand-processed in Tofino.

Roy Henry Vickers Gallery World-renowned Canadian First Nations artist Roy Henry Vickers has a terrific gallery in the heart of Tofino where you can see his carvings, original prints and paintings, reproductions, books and jewellery — all housed in a building he built himself with close friends and family.

Tofino Clayoquot Heritage Museum The museum showcases events spanning from the retreat of the last glaciers to Nuu-chah-nulth culture to the logging protests that have shaped present-day Tofino.