The Packing Shed review: Rustic restaurant at Lawnbrook Estate has a beautiful outlook and great food

If you know me, chances are you know how I feel about Bickley. Such is my love for this little slice of heaven in the Perth Hills that I extol its virtues to anyone who is interested, and many who aren’t. At the end of a beautiful winding drive from Kalamunda, the road dips into this green valley with vineyards, orchards and little wineries and restaurants — a taste of Margaret River, but only 40 minutes from home. We discovered The Packing Shed, at Lawnbrook Estate, years ago while searching for somewhere to have lunch after a particularly breathtaking walk through Whistlepipe Gully. This beautifully rustic spot, surrounded by trees and rolling hills, with a babbling creek nearby, just continued the high. Since then, we spent a period away from The Packing Shed as its opening hours clashed with nap-times for our two kids. Now, one of the drawcards to regularly return is what my eight-year-old daughter describes as the best kids’ meal of her life. Her brother is already asking to go back. The tree-covered patio is a cool oasis on this hot Saturday, and once orders are placed at the counter, the two kids’ platters ($16 each) come out quickly: a juice box, corn chips, a wedge of homemade sausage roll (with visible carrot; gasp!), cheese cubes, watermelon, strawberries, grapes and a slice of what we know from previous visits is a life-altering brownie. On other occasions, it’s been fairy bread; the kids are far from disappointed by the substitution. Not a chicken nugget in sight, plus a thoughtful bookshelf of games and toys keeps the kids amused almost the whole time. The Packing Shed houses a winery and distillery cellar door; I opt for a glass of their terrifically dry Rusty Pony rosé ($8) and Michael chooses a Garden Party floral gin and soda ($10), which is light and refreshing. The country-style menu veers from dishes inspired by Italy to Japan via Mexico and Greece, which is an intriguing proposition. The arancini (three for $18) are parmesan-topped crunchy balls of flavour, with a good dab of aioli but also a herb oil to break through some of the richness. They’re perfect with the rosé; I could eat ten. The lamb chops, with cucumber, feta, dill and jus, ($35) are great quality, cooked medium with a nice crust on the outside; the feta and cucumber are a lovely cooling, creamy foil to the meaty dish. Karaage chicken ($24 for small, $30 large) comes with chilli-flecked kupus (a cabbage salad) and shichimi, as well as the obligatory Kewpie mayonnaise. We opt for the small and half a dozen pieces arrive, nicely crispy on the outside and juicy on the inside. The Mexican chat potatoes ($28) don’t quite land; they have a good spice and crunch, and come accompanied by corn, red chilli, jalapeno and pickled onions (which also feature on the lamb and the chicken; lucky they’re yum). But a coconut yoghurt is slightly sweet and feels out of place; a tangy natural yoghurt or sour cream-based sauce would make more sense to me. While the kids run on the grass, we finish a negroni made with the Garden Party gin; it’s so bitter and cool and perfect that we buy a bottle to take home. This spot continues to be a family favourite. The verdict: 15/20 This winery restaurant has a beautiful setting and great food; well worth the drive. The Packing Shed Distilling Co 19 Loaring Road, Bickley Open Friday 11.30am-2pm, Saturday and Sunday 11.30am-4pm Contact 0490 678 998, thepackingshed.com.au Bookings Yes