Deep south tastes take centre stage at East Fremantle’s new jazz bar the Duke of George

There may have been dancing. There was definitely behind-the-back guitar playing. And there was a lot of food. The Duke of George is East Fremantle’s new jazz bar, and they’re doing that charmingly old-fashioned thing of dinner and a show each Saturday.

It sounds so quaint, but I reckon it’ll start trending, given our obsession with the experiential.

I’m a convert.

The Duke opened mid-January in George Street’s historic Brush Factory, which once manufactured brooms. It has poured itself into the building’s bowels, where solid walls hopefully soak up the live music. Not that it’s outrageously noisy — we were 5m from the stage and could talk easily.

Dark floorboards, shiny black tables and gold-studded faux-suede armchairs feature, with banquette seating around the edges.

The absence of an official dance floor matters not. By 6.30pm on a Saturday, when the sun is still shining, the room is packed with all-aged adults drinking cocktails from cut crystal, and there’s a queue at the door.

The menu is curated by consultant chef Stuart Laws, who understands that the food’s origins should match the music — think gumbo, corn bread and jambalaya.

There’s a la carte for those who want to graze, or three show menus — vego, meat and seafood($35/$35/$65; gig ticket additional).

We book the carnivore compilation.

As the blues and electric roots of Matty T Wall’s band cut the air, southern fried chicken drumsticks arrive. The fall-off-the-bone-tender bird is searing hot, yet there’s not a hint of oiliness in the crisp shell. Roquefort-strong blue cheese sauce is too hefty for me. Side plates are optional for this finger licker, but they’d come in handy for the Duke’s Caesar salad.

When the plates eventually arrive, they’re hot from the dishwasher. Not ideal for lettuce.

Luckily the bourbon bacon is sensational. Tender in parts, chewy like jerky in others, it’s sweet yet savoury. The caesar feels like a French interpretation — gently dressed with a slightly acidic, non-creamy sauce that’s light, fresh and infused with the saltiness of blended anchovy and parmesan shavings. A fabulous Pemberton pinot sets it off ($10 a glass).

Glossy brioche sliders are other-level. Char-toastedon the inside and layered with butter-soft pulled pork and crisp slaw, the bread soaks up the sauces, so there’s zero dribble and maximum flavour. Fluffy sweet potato chips, drained to perfection with oodles of aioli, are a brilliant pairing.

A waitress advises that our neighbours have been served our chicken and sausage jambalaya. They’re offered free drinks and we’re offered their seafood version. Hrm. They’re good sorts, so we swap after sampling the peppery, prawn and clam dish. The meat rendition is entirely different, with earthier spices and an oil-tomatoglaze balanced with sherry vinegar that coats the long grain rice. I actually lick the spoon. And that’s when the dancing happens.

Purely as a digestion aid, I assure you. I’ll be back.

Duke of George

Address: 135 George Street, East Fremantle

Phone: 9319 1618

Open: Thur-Fri, 5pm-midnight; Sat, 12noon-midnight; Sun, 12noon-10pm

WEB: dukeofgeorge.com.au

Bookings: Yes

Licenced: Yes

Score: 15/20