STM’s Goody Two’s restaurant review: Taste sensations a clubland surprise in Hibernian Place

Dinner in a nightclub — who would’ve thunk it? There’s nothing that says we’re in a new age of eating and drinking than a late-night haunt’s menu that’s 15 dishes strong and as polished as a brass pot.

Trends are pointing to young people wanting to drink less, drink better and eat things that aren’t necessarily carb-dominated as they sip their libations. Enter Goody Two’s, a very low-lit lounge bar in the basement at the still-new precinct, Hibernian Place.

Its owners are known for their food-first focus and one of them, Andy Freeman, thought up Varnish on King, The Flour Factory and Hadiqa (just upstairs) — all bars that blur into restaurants, care of sharp culinary nous.

Another owner, Eamon Sullivan, has a sound track record with Bib and Tucker and May Street Larder.

The third musketeer, Scott Bridger, is the very capable executive chef at Sullivan’s restaurants.

So with those credentials, why not have dinner here?

The rather masculine space fits 200 people, but when we arrive at 8.45pm, it’s far from capacity. As flights of house speciality, Japanese whisky arrive ($35), so too do dainty minced tuna pyramids, balanced on nori-flecked crisps made of puffed sushi rice. The tartare loves its yuzu acid kick and smidge of chilli buzz, dolloped with blended avocado. It’s so zingy fresh we order another round — a bargain at $12, as are the chicken dumplings ($8), fried crisp and doused in soy.

Forget everything you know about prawn toast. This high-end take is made with deep-fried ciabatta that’s pressed with Shark Bay prawn chunks, sesame and nigella seeds, and decorated with yuzu kewpie, roe and radish sprouts. Three slabs are only $12.

Finger-like slivers of eggplant, slow-cooked in sake and ginger, thencoated in paper-thin tempura and dotted with something resembling rice bubbles ($7), is wonderfully original. An earthy miso glaze and house-made furikake seasoning adds further complexity.

The GFC (Goody’s Fried Chicken, $10) is a slam-dunk — a chip bucket jammed with succulent chicken chunks eager to be dipped in the Korean chilli sauce and kewpie.

The only sub-par dish of the night is fried tofu ($8). The cubes are dense, chalky and overcooked and the bang bang sauce doesn’t save them.

But the house’s biggest dish, a sliced Cape Grim sirloin ($35), is perfection — crimson-centred, edge-seared and easy to pick up with chopsticks. Three sauces enhance the soft flesh in intriguing ways.

As you’d expect, pretty much everything goes magically with whisky, so why does it not quite work?

My sense is Goody Two’s is missing personality and direction, which is odd given the owners’ other hotspots have it in spades.

The name sounds light and fun, but a bleak interior colour scheme dominates the mood. But if anyone can fix atmosphere, it’s this dream team, and I hope they do, because the food is fantastic.

GOODY TWO’S

Basement, 40 Irwin Street, Perth, 9221 9545

goodytwos.com.auOPEN: Wed and Thu, 5pm-midnight; Fri and Sat, 5pm-2am

LICENCED: Yes

BOOKINGS: Yes

FLEUR’S VERDICT: Creative, Japanese-inspired nosh that’s sensational value and ideal for eating gracefully while conversing. The lounge bar lacks charisma, though.

14/20