Perth Breakfast & Brunch: Chinta, North Perth

Every foodie has their own little restaurant rules, the guidelines they think boost their chances of dodging that most feared of all experiences: a bad meal. Never order the second least expensive bottle of wine (venues know everyone does so they use it to offlload whatever is in surplus). A small menu is a good sign (too many items indicates a jack of all trade, master of none, in the kitchen). Bad bread will mean a bad meal (if they can’t get the bread right, what can they do?). Sitting down to a meal at Chinta, North Perth’s answer to Ubud, my dining companion is quick to reveal his rule for eating out: always order the dish to which the restaurant will put its name. In this case, that means Chinta’s Mie Goreng ($29). Does it work? I’ll get to it. But first: why Chinta? Jealousy, really. If my social media feed is to be believed, I must be the only person left in Perth. Everyone else is cos-playing Roman Holiday in Italy, living out my dream of seeing Harry Potter and the Cursed Child on Broadway or, yes, sunning themselves on Kuta Beach. Since I am in a position to do exactly none of those things, the logical conclusion is to take myself to the Balinese-inspired Chinta, a former garage that’s heavy on Balinese-inspired decor, tropical plants and South-East Asian spices. I have been to China many times. There are few places better for a slightly boozy brunch, sipping gin from a teapot with a side of French Toast, or matching a flat white with what I maintain is Perth’s best avocado toast. For this brunch visit, though, I’m in search of the full ersatz Bali experience, which means eschewing the more conventional western choices on the restaurant’s all-day brunch menu. Instead I plump for Kari Sayur Lodeh ($21) — a vegetable curry here made with jackfruit, the chameleon of the fruit world with a vaguely meat-like texture — and a side of Tempura cauliflower ($10). The first sign that we might not be in Bali, famously a service culture, is the warning that there’s a 40 minute wait on the food. The message, though, is delivered promptly and apologetically and, with a glass of prosecco, some half-decent conversation and a surprisingly convivial vibe for a weekday, the wait is not a trial. It also means we’re more than ready for the plate of tempura cauliflower, which arrives looking tanned as a Balinese holidaymaker one week in, hot with what the menu assures me is Korean barbecue sauce and sprinkled with furikake. The crunch on the batter is a sign of things to come. It’s crisp, not too heavy and — maybe it’s the prosecco and the wait talking — really, really moreish. The worst that can be said of the tempura cauliflower is that neither my date nor I are capable of resisting the temptation to fill up on it before our meals arrive. Kari Sayur Lodeh is a moderately ugly dish — the version pictured here is much prettier than mine, which was somehow brown and grey at the same time. But, much like Hollywood’s Steve Buscemi, what it lacks in conventional good looks it makes up for with character. The chilli, lime and coconut flavours come together for an interesting and delicious curry that’s creamy without being bland and spicy without raising a sweat. But, I know what you’re thinking: how does my friend’s rule, the one about putting your faith in the restaurant’s name, pan out? He might be on to something. The Mie Goreng is packed with umami, slick but not greasy and overall well-balanced and with a great range of textures. One more to add to my own list of restaurant rules. THE VERDICT: 16/20 A tropical escape in the heart of Perth. Chinta, North Perth 29 Scarborough Beach Rd, North Perth OPEN Monday-Friday 7am-2.30pm Saturday & Sunday 7am-4pm CONTACT chintacafe.com BOOKINGS Yes