The secrets to growing perfect camellias

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Late autumn is the time we all become entranced with camellias as they begin to show off their exquisite beauty.

Sasanquas are the first to flower, from late April through to June, and then it’s time for the japonicas to follow suit.

Camellias are a lot tougher than people give them credit for, but they won’t thrive in gutless, sandy, water-repellent, alkaline soils. I don’t recommend them for coastal gardens unless they are grown in a pot or a protected area in a raised bed away from salt-laden winds.

Camellias prefer acidic soil with a pH of about six and compost, cow manure and some clay. They do very well in the Hills, particularly in loamy, gravel clay soils. Use a well-rounded granular fertiliser that has all the minerals required for flowering and healthy growth.

Sasanqua camellias are touted as sun tolerant but not when it comes to our summers if they are in an exposed site.

They will grow in full sun and make the most beautiful hedges but it’s all about finding the right location and soil improvement.

My advice is to go to Dawson’s Garden World, which specialises in growing camellias, to find the right variety to suit the soil type and position. They can vary in size considerably and have many colour combinations.

There are a few problems camellias get at flowering time that drive gardeners nutty, the main problem being bud drop.

This can be caused by many factors, unfortunately some of which we have no control over.

One of the biggest problems is fluctuation in temperature and moisture level just before bud set. The continuation of hot weather in autumn encourages leafy growth to the detriment of bud development.

The buds are usually aborted at formation or produce few flowers. Do some research and find varieties that bloom later or transplant them into a more shady protected location.

Another cause is nutrient deficiency or too much nitrogen that encourages foliage growth. Flower development depends on potassium, magnesium and other trace elements. Apply trace elements as a foliar spray at the end of spring and after flowering.

If you have a camellia that has always dropped its buds, it’s probably the variety rather than a problem. Sometimes digging them up and transplanting can help, but often it’s in the genetic make-up of the plant. They transplant really well, so moving them is better than losing them.

If you are growing camellias in pots, space them out for airflow or prune some stems off to increase air circulation inside the bushes. If you need to resort to chemical treatment for a fungal problem, spray with Mancozeb when there is no rain forecast for a few days.