STM’s restaurant review: A diverse menu is helping Bayswater’s King Somm make a name for itself

One of life’s joys is being able to amble down the street and, minutes later, be leaning on the bar of a watering hole. Such spots used to reek of smoke and men of a certain mid-section circumference, but the neighbourhood bar is now an egalitarian pleasure that extends to families and, occasionally, dogs — a true community hub.

King Somm opened its heritage-listed doors in February, redefining a century-old space that has been a billiard hall and a second-hand book shop, and even a store for black-market potatoes. It still has a sniff of the clandestine about it, with the venue’s name in small print, which of course makes you want to be there even more.

The wine store is at the front (grab a takeaway or buy a bottle for your table and add corkage), before stairs lead up to the main bar-restaurant and out to a canine-friendly beer garden. The eating side of things is cutely named Jane Dough — no prize for guessing what the speciality is. Aside from pizza, the plates list is impressively diverse — the work of former Meat Candy chef and local resident, Ben Atkinson.

We settle into a candlelit table and eventually realise there’s no table service.

Back at the bar, the cocky barman who serves us decrees all the food will come at once unless I return to order in batches. I question why they can’t deliver it over two courses and he changes tack, saying the plates will come first and the pizzas 10 minutes later. It works for me.

You know what happens, don’t you? The pizza arrives first, directly followed by a tsunami of food that has to be juggled to fit on the table. It’s a shame because half of it goes cold before we get to it — a bad outcome for both sides.

Fortunately, the meal is slicker than the service. Huge, perfectly just-cooked tiger prawns fall out of their butterflied shells, garnished with fennel fronds (three for $21). Meanwhile, diced salmon crudo is subtly accented with nectarine, celery and fennel, then twisted with a scatter of black cumin and couched on avocado purée ($17).

Lamb ribs smack of fatty mutton flavours until I scoop up the accompanying saffron yoghurt sprinkled with dukkah, fresh herbs and Spanish onion ($17). As an ensemble, it’s decidedly better.

Fresh figs teamed with rustic chorizo, toasted almonds and creamy goat’s cheese leave us all wanting more ($19). It’s a seasonal dish, so get it while it lasts.

The Italian/American-style pizzas, made with slow-fermented dough, are on par with the plated fare. Pork and fennel sausage is doled out in rugged chunks on plenty of cheese and a paper-thin base. A salsa verde drizzle makes things interesting ($23). We add prosciutto to the “classic pizza” of San Marzano tomato puree, fior di latte cheese and fresh basil. The ham is thin and generously covers each slice ($22).

For $50 a head, including a cocktail each, we are more than sated. At 8.35pm, last drinks are called, throwing us back to conservative Perth. Suburban life may be getting cool, but it’s still early to bed.

JANE DOUGH

Inside King Somm Wine Bar & Store, 13 King William Street, Bayswater; no phone; janedoughpizza.com.au

Open: Wed & Thur, 4.30pm-9pm, Fri 4.30pm-midnight, Sat noon-midnight, Sun noon-9pm

Licenced: Yes, or BYO from the wine store (corkage varies)

Bookings: No

FLEUR’S VERDICT: 14/20