Bar & Bites: George Kailis’ Magic Apple Wholefoods brings clean-eating not dull-eating to Cottesloe beach

George Kailis says he’ll never open two restaurants in the same year ever again. In May, the restaurateur launched Gibney, the fancy coastal bistro and grill in Cottesloe, before opening Magic Apple Wholefoods two clicks up Marine Parade on October 30. The two eateries are very different. Where Gibney is finer dining, Magic Apple favours big wholesome bowls of puffed grains, eggplant, tofu, cabbage, kale and all manner of healthy tucker. Bar & Bites sampled some of these dishes and is pleased to report clean eating is not dull eating. Favourites included the seasoned beef with poached eggs and smashed avo; the crispy tofu with steamed sweet cabbage, organic mushrooms and “superfood seed crunch”; and the veggie fritters. Add some Sriracha sauce and you’ve got the breakfast, brunch or lunch of champions. The cocktails from Kailis Hospitality Group bar director James Gentile are fun — especially the tequila-loaded Summer of Love and the Magic (bloody) Mary with Vegemite. The Gut Goodness smoothie looked like green slime but tasted fine. I still don’t know what bentonite clay is. One of the best aspects of Magic Apple is the aspect — the former Barchetta site is perched above North Cott beach and when the windows are thrown open you can taste the salty air. Love the cedar-clad “treehouse on acid” vibes too. Kailis welcomes punters to come in straight off the beach, but is trying to avoid filling up the joint with folks sitting for hours with an extra-hot black coffee to soak up the view. We’ll know whether Perthlings think this step into the wholefoods market is magic, but B&B reckons she’s apples. Located at 149 Marine Parade in Cottesloe, Magic Apple is open for breakfast and lunch, with dinner service due to commence in mid-December. FRESH VARNISH Veteran city bar Varnish on King has unveiled Jerry Schoemaker as head chef. With 20 years’ experience everywhere from country Victoria to Het Savarijn in Holland and Mugaritz in Spain, Schoemaker plans to push share plates at his new home. “Eating is an experience best enjoyed with friends and family,” he told B&B. “I focus on creating dishes that are good-tasting, clean and simple, because great food brings people together.” Dishes hitting the Varnish menu include Portuguese-spiced chicken, steak tartare en croute with horseradish, Amelia Park lamb rump, King St potato pave with creme fraiche and caviar, and chicken liver parfait with sage and caramelised onion. Located in the basement of 75 King Street, Perth, Varnish is open daily from 4pm till late and Saturdays from noon to 10pm. FUN FUNDRAISING FOR ST PAT’S St Patrick’s Community Support Centre and the National Hotel join forces for this year’s Fremantle Long Table Dinner. Being held at the Naval Store on Queen Victoria Street on November 16, the 400-capacity fundraiser has a “marine steampunk” theme and features entertainment from Famous Sharron, Circus WA, Rocks and Rhubarb and more. The National will serve a three-course dinner celebrating local produce. Tickets and more information from fremantlelongtable.com.au.