La Vida Urbana: This Leederville mod-Mexican is very hit and miss - for now

EL PUBLICO in Highgate: it’s cool, right? So why not create another one, slap on a different name and plop it into the hip hood of Leederville? On paper it looks good, but the catch is that it must live up to its sibling’s standards, charisma and verve.

At La Vida Urbana, the mod-Mexican evening menu is similar but pared back (unlike the flagship, it also opens for breakfast and lunch). The prices are comparable and there’s the same pink neon donkey on the wall. But this cavernous four-month-old is still finding its feet.

The space resembles an empty shoebox. Bi-fold doors are rolled back so Newcastle Street’s pavement feeds directly into the buffed concrete floor. Exposed ceilings that look more industrial than cool are teamed with sparse furnishings. The result? Clanging hard surfaces that, while fashionable, feel stark and shred noise levels.

I visit twice because the first time, service is a train wreck and something is terribly wrong with the kitchen’s veg section. Grilled asparagus spears ($14) arrive cremated. When we hand the full plate back, our waitress smiles in that “I understand your pain” kind of way and disappears. Later, we have to ask for its removal from the bill (it’s deducted, with apologies).

A girl in the bathroom raves about the crisp, salty, deep-fried Brussels sprouts ($16) but our nuggets are smothered with limp rocket leaves drenched in hot chilli sauce. It’s a cloying mess that borders on inedible.

Fortunately, fatty lamb riblettes ($20) are delightful. Crisp edged, sweetened with tamarind sauce and mango chunks, this is a dish worth the trouble. Kingfish swimming in spicy cucumber water ($22) tastes as fresh as it should, its raw, meaty flesh pairing beautifully with smooth honeydew.

Skirt steak seared on the grill ($30) hits the bullseye. Its oft-tough meat is sliced into tender fingers textured with a jerky crumble. A bed of creamy white bean puree is scattered with charry green chilli and onion chunks.

A cauliflower taco ($7) sounds bland but it’s a dark horse. Fried florets wrapped in a soft, house made corn tortillawith shredded cabbage and chipotle mayo is the perfect pre-movie snack. The confit pork taco with blackened pineapple ($8) competes strongly, but the fish rendition is muted. The tacos are tiny, roughly the size of your palm. A couple of blokes who order three each look crestfallen when the spread arrives.

Yet they’re not as overpriced as dessert. I can’t see the argument for charging $14 for a fist-sized hibiscus meringue, halved with cheesecake puree squirted in the middle. Same goes for a small, patisserie-style lemon tart crowned with lanolin-flavoured sour cream ice-cream.

So what to make of “the urban life”? First impressions team forgotten water, wine, salsa and knives with the simultaneous arrival of nibbles, shares and mains. A week later, service is attentive and charming, I get a lesson in tequila and courses are staggered. Hmm. Shall we give it the benefit of the doubt?

13/20

FLEUR’S VERDICT

Food and service are, for now, hit and miss at La Vida Urbana – I’d expected better from the offshoot of a proven operator. It’s not El Publico mark 2, but it is a fitting addition to Leederville but lingers in the good, rather than great camp.

La Vida Urbana

Address: 1/228 Carr Pl, Leederville

Phone: 0439 905 777

Open: Wednesday to Friday, 11:30am to late; Saturday, 8am and Sunday, 8am to late.

Web: facebook.com/urbanaperth

Bookings: Yes, but walk-ins only for peak periods

Licenced: Yes